Macro-nutrients Nitrogen (N)
is primary to plant growth. Plants
convert nitrogen to make proteins
essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen
is mainly responsible for leaf and stem
growth as well as overall size and
vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active
young buds, shoots and leaves and slower
to older leaves. Deficiency signs show
first in older leaves. They turn a pale
yellow and may die. New growth becomes
weak and spindly. An abundance of
nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth
and even delay flower and fruit
production if it is allowed to
accumulate.
Phosphorus
(P) is necessary for
photosynthesis and works as a catalyst
for energy transfer within the plant.
Phosphorus helps build strong roots and
is vital for flower and seed production.
Highest levels of phosphorus are used
during germination, seedling growth and
flowering. Deficiencies will show in
older leaves first. Leaves turn deep
green on a uniformly smaller, stunted
plant. Leaves show brown or purple
spots.
Potassium (K) activates
the manufacture and movement of sugars
and starches, as well as growth by cell
division. Potassium increases
chlorophyll in foliage and helps
regulate stomata openings so plants make
better use of light and air. Potassium
encourages strong root growth, water
uptake and triggers enzymes that fight
disease. Potassium is necessary during
all stages of growth. It is especially
important in the development of fruit.
Deficiency signs of potassium are:
plants are the tallest and appear
healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow
between veins, followed by whole leaves
that turn dark yellow and die. Flower
and fruit drop are common problems
associated with potassium deficiency.
Potassium is usually locked out by high
salinity.
Secondary
Nutrients Magnesium (Mg) is
found as a central atom in the
chlorophyll molecule and is essential to
the absorption of light energy.
Magnesium aids in the utilization of
nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic
compounds produced by the plant.
Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older
leaves yellow from the center outward,
while veins remain green on deficient
plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor
and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime
green if the deficiency progresses to
the top of the plant.
Calcium (Ca)
is fundamental to cell manufacture and
growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite
lime, which contains calcium and
magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or
buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium
to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium
moves slowly within the plant and tends
to concentrate in roots and older
growth. Consequently young growth shows
deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf
tips, edges and new growth will turn
brown and die back. If too much calcium
is applied early in life, it will stunt
growth as well. It will also flocculate
when a concentrated form is combined
with potassium.
Trace
Elements Sulphur (S) is a
component of plant proteins and plays a
role in root growth and chlorophyll
supply. Distributed relatively evenly
with largest amounts in leaves which
affects the flavor and odor in many
plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves
little within plant tissue and the first
signs of a deficiency are pale young
leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend
to get brittle and stay narrower than
normal.
Iron (Fe)
is a key catalyst in chlorophyll
production and is used in
photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns
leaves pale yellow or white while the
veins remain green. Iron is difficult
for plants to absorb and moves slowly
within the plant. Always use chelated
(immediately available to the plant)
iron in nutrient mixes.
Manganese
(Mg) works with plant enzymes
to reduce nitrates before producing
proteins. A lack of manganese turns
young leaves a mottled yellow or brown.
Zinc (Z)
is a catalyst and must be present in
minute amounts for plant growth. A lack
of zinc results in stunting, yellowing
and curling of small leaves. An excess
of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and
causes wilting or death.
Copper (C)
is a catalyst for several enzymes. A
shortage of copper makes new growth wilt
and causes irregular growth. Excesses of
copper causes sudden death. Copper is
also used as a fungicide and wards off
insects and diseases because of this
property.
Boron (B)
is necessary for cells to divide and
protein formation. It also plays an
active role in pollination and seed
production.
Molybdenum (Mn)
helps form proteins and aids the plant's
ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A
deficiency causes leaves to turn pale
and fringes to appear scorched.
Irregular leaf growth may also result.
These nutrients are
mixed together to form a complete plant
fertilizer. The mix contains all the
nutrients in the proper ratios to give
plants all they need for lush, rapid
growth. The fertilizer is dissolved in
water to make a nutrient solution. Water
transports these soluble nutrients into
contact with the plant roots. In the
presence of oxygen and water, the
nutrients are absorbed through the root
hairs.
Source: George Van
Pattens' excellent book "Gardening: The
Rockwool Book".
Key on Nutrient Disorders
To use the
Problem-Solver, simply start
at #1 below. When you think
you've found the problem,
read the Nutrients section
to learn more about it.
Diagnose carefully before
making major changes.
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Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies
The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - (N)
Plants need lots of N during vegging,
but it's easy to overdo it. Added too
much? Flush the soil with plain water.
Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is
the form that's the most quickly
available to the roots, while insoluble
N (like urea) first needs to be broken
down by microbes in the soil before the
roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive
ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere
with other nutrients. Too much N delays
flowering. Plants should be allowed to
become N-deficient late in flowering for
best flavor.
Magnesium
Mg-deficiency is pretty common since
marijuana uses lots of it and many
fertilizers don't have enough of it.
Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼
teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first
powdered and dissolved in some hot
water) or foliar feed at ½
teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use
2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of
soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too
much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't
overdo Mg or you'll lock up other
nutrients.
Potassium
Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a
K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are:
baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"),
too much manure, and the use of
water-softening filters (which should not be
used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil.
K can get locked up from too much Ca or
ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold
weather.
Phosphorous
Some deficiency during flowering is
normal, but too much shouldn't be
tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a
normal, genetic characteristic for many
varieties, plus it can also be a
co-symptom of N, K and Mg-deficiencies,
so red stems are not a foolproof sign of
P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to
iron deficiency.
Iron
Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH
of the water or soil is too high. If
deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5
(for rockwool, about 5.7), and check
that you're not adding too much P, which
can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated
for maximum availability. Read your
fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron
might read something like "iron EDTA".
To much Fe without adding enough P can
cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese
Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high,
and when there's too much iron. Use chelated
Mn.
Zinc
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn,
Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur
together, and are usually from a high
pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-
lower the pH if that's the problem so
the nutrients become available. Foliar
feed if the plant looks real bad. Use
chelated zinc.
OVER FERTILIZATION
Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt.
To correct soil should be flushed with three
gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
B -
BORON (B)
Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing
shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon
of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon
of water.
Ca -
CALCIUM (Ca)
Lack of calcium in the soil results in the
soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or
Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth.
Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of
dolomatic lime per quart of water until
condition improves.
Check Your Water
Crusty faucets and shower heads mean
your water is "hard," usually due to too
many minerals. Tap water with a TDS
(total dissolved solids) level of more
than around 200ppm (parts per million)
is "hard" and should be looked into,
especially if your plants have a chronic
problem. Ask your water company for an
analysis listing, which will usually
list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as
well as the pollutants, carcinogens,
etc) for the tap water in your area.
This is a common request, especially in
this day and age, so it shouldn't raise
an eyebrow.
Regular water filters will not reduce a
high TDS level, but the costlier
reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and
de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter
(or EC = electrical conductivity meter)
is an incredibly useful tool for
monitoring the nutrient levels of
nutrient solution, and will pay for
itself before you know it. They run
about $40 and up.
General Feeding Tips
Pot plants are very adaptable, but a
general rule of thumb is to use more
nitrogen & less phosphorous during the
vegetative period, and the exact
opposite during the flowering period.
For the veg. period try a N:P:K ratio of
about 10:7:8 (which of course is the
same ratio as 20:14:16), and for
flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH
after adding nutrients.
If you use a reservoir, keep it
circulating and change it every 2 weeks.
A general guideline for TDS levels is as
follows: seedlings = 50-150 ppm;
unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small
plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants =
900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering =
taper off to plain water. These numbers
are just a guideline, and many factors
can change the actual level the plants
will need. Certain nutrients are
"invisible" to TDS meters, especially
organics, so use TDS level only as an
estimate of actual nutrient levels. When
in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow
the fertilizer's directions for feeding
tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish
plants nearby for comparison.
PH
The pH of water after adding any
nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in
rockwool, 5.5-6.1) . Generally speaking,
the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get
locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above
7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K,
Mg) can be less available in acidic soil
or water (below 5.0). Tapwater is often
too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or
other organic matter in them tend to get
too acidic, which some dolomite lime
will help fix. Soil test kits vary in
accuracy, and generally the more you pay
the better the accuracy. For the water,
color-based pH test kits from aquarium
stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate.
Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80),
preferably a waterproof one. You won't
regret it.
Other Things.
Cold
Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up
phosphorous. Some varieties, like
equatorial sativas, don't take well to
cold weather. If you can keep the roots
warmer, the plant will be able to take
cooler temps than it otherwise could.
Heat
If the lights are too close to the
plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and
look burnt, mimicking a nutrient
problem. Your hand should not feel hot
after a minute when you hold it at the
top of the plants. Raise the lights
and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room
temps should be kept under 85F (29C) --
or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Humidity
Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low
humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
Mold and fungus
Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be
mold. Lower the humidity and increase the
ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any
dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your
garden clean.
Insects
White spots on the tops of leaves can mean
spider mites underneath.
Sprays
Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass"
effect under bright lights, causing small
white, yellow or burnt spots which can be
confused with a nutrient problem. Some
sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
Insufficient light
Tall, stretching plants are usually from
using the wrong kind of light.. Don't
use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow
bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis.
Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or
HID lighting (much better) which supply
the high-intensity light that cannabis
needs for good growth and tight buds.
Even better, grow in sunlight.
Clones
yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can
be from too much light, or the stem may
not be firmly touching the rooting
medium. Turn off any CO2 until they
root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or
wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
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Low THC Midwestern varieties mature in
August and September, while Equatorial
varieties mature from November through
to January. The marijuana buds require
intense light to thicken and swell.
Under the low light conditions found in
the UK the marijuana buds are very
skimpy and thin but are often very
potent. Sativa marijuana buds smell
sweet, fruity (Apple Pie comes to mind)
and perfumed, and their smoke is
usually smooth and easily inhaled. Sativas
are found all over the world and
include most of the commercial
equatorial varieties such as
Colombian, Mexican, Nigerian and South
African where marijuana plants can be
very potent. When smoking a sativa the
high is very Cerebral, you have a rush
of energy, a buzz in the body and a
great way of getting the housework done
without vegging out.
Native sativa marijuana plants above the
30th parallel are considered industrial
hemp. Under artificial light an Indica
plant will mature faster than a
sativa, over 4 weeks of extra light is
required to bring a sativa plant to
maturity, even then its weight is
often much lower. Hence, more indica
strains are grown for sale, making the
dealer / grower richer. So, with all
these different growth patterns, highs,
THC content and maturation times,
marijuana plants of today are almost
tailored to the individual grower.
Twenty years ago it was difficult to get
a prime crop of bud, as the seeds were
from a country that produced more light
and heat, therefore making growing in
this country a little painful for the
poor marijuana plants. However today it
is possible to buy strains that will
flower in the autumn month that best
suits you. Indoor growing is fast
becoming big business in this
country and growers are free to grow
whatever strain they desire, no limit is
put on light and heat, making all
strains possible to grow. Seed
companies would not exist without a
crossbreeding pattern and there would be
no cannabis Cup!!
So when you go out to Holland and
purchase a strain of weed, purchase
three kinds, Pure indica, Pure sativa
and a 50/50 crossbreed, and see if you
can see the difference in the high, you
will be pleasantly surprised, if not a
little trashed.
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how to grow marijuana
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